Robbed!

The intense rains of the tropical rainy season lulled for a few moments after a day of relentless pouring. I had just finished a wonderful conversation-studded Peruvian dinner with a new friend, Pamela, and my wonderful couchsurfing host, Rachel.

Their homes were just a few blocks apart, so Rachel and I walked Pamela to her apartment to bid her farewell. I had nothing more than an umbrella, my wallet, a few coins in a pocket, my ever-constant travel diary, and a few precious gifts Pamela had given to aid me in my quest (a pair of handmade Nepali wool gloves for the Andes, an embroidered purse for depositing money to aid foundations in Nepal, and a silk kata, a traditional Sherpa scarf used for greetings and blessings on long journeys or farewells).

After dropping Pamela off, Rachel and I took the main road to get back home. The air was fresh from the recent rains, and the grass was damp beneath our feet as we crossed the nearby park to the main drag. We passed the American Embassy in Costa Rica, well lit and heavily fortified like a military base. It was the most imposing building in the whole city and there were armed guards at every entrance.

We strolled a few meters down, still reeling in the good vibes from our wonderful dinner and making fun of the bright yellow neon arches of MacDonalds, one of the most familiar symbols of multi-national capitalism of our time.

We saw three men approaching us from the other direction. One of them was walking a bicycle. When they got closer, it was apparent that they were just young boys, perhaps 18-21 years of age. They said something.

I thought they were greeting us, and replied in a jovial manner, '¡buenas noches!' Almost everyone greets each other in Latin America, even strangers.

They stopped and surrounded us, murmuring something rapidly. I didn´t understand. They said it again, but I still didn´t understand. I offered them my umbrella as a joke and tried to push through the guys, but he stopped my progress.

'Tengo un pistol, tengo un pistol,' one of the guys kept repeating.

Then Rachel and I looked at each other, and we knew that we were clearly being robbed. I didn´t see a weapon, and neither did Rachel, but with the three guys surrounding us, I found it imprudent to fight back.

I tried to diffuse the situation by responding in Spanish that we didn´t have any money and to leave us alone. Then one of the guys placed his hands on my pockets searching for something. Fearful that he might take my diary and Pamela´s gifts, I took out my wallet with the intention of handing over all the cash.

Instead, as soon as I pulled out the wallet, one of them grabbed it, and without even inspecting it, and signalled to the rest. In an instant, they were gone! The three cycled off on one bike, like mischievous youngsters scrambling away from the police after saying a bad word.

So what did I lose? I had just taken out cash earlier in the day for the rest of Costa Rica (somewhere around $80 in colones). I had my bank card. In a secret compartment, I had hidden $100 in traveler´s checks, a driver´s license, and 500 Mexican pesos (about $50), to be used only in emergencies. Then, there were random cards and notes of encouragements from friends along the road.

Now that a few days have passed, my reflections on the incident are as follows.

First, the positive things:

1. My load is lighter now. All those extra things I guarded in my wallet besides cash and cards have now been liberated.
2. I am safe. I am grateful that the altercation did not escalate into a fight, with guns, knives, or any sort of weapon. Neither Rachel nor I were hurt by the robbers.
3. I learned a valuable lesson: I will never carry so much cash at one time; I will never let my guard down, even in places that seem safe and secure.
4. Cash is paper and cards are plastic. Thats it. Nothing more. Had any of my gear or equipment been stolen, it would be much more difficult to find replacements. Money can be earned, and I will NEVER let a lack of funds deter me from my goals.
5. The whole experience made for a bonding experience with my friends in San José - we shared our sympathies, and then quickly resorted to joking about the experience, of course, ALL of us learning a lesson from it.
6. Petty theft hasn´t stopped me before. And its not going to now. All of the people I have met in Costa Rica (and all of Central America) have been very friendly, extending their help to me beyond imagination, and I am not going to let this isolated incident tarnish my view of these wonderful people. Ticos are no more dangerous than Nicas or Mexicans or Americans. Good and bad people exist in every society.
7. All of my cards and travelers checks were canceled without any hassle. Whats more, my bank is sending a new card expedited, straight to Costa Rica, for FREE!
8. The incident happened a day after my twin sister, Karla left. I am glad she did not have to experience such a thing.
9. My diary was left unscathed... woot!
10. I´m excited and motivated for the trip ahead, and VERY ready! Yay - onwards!

Now, the bad stuff:

1. The roughly $130 in cash was about 14-18 days of my budget, which would have propelled me all the way to Panama City. Thats more than two weeks of traveling!
2. I have to wait an extra few days in the not-so-scenic city of San José before continuing along the journey.
3. I was in the middle of an awesome conversation with Rachel about the effects of McDonalds in third world countries! And it was cut short! grrr...The thieves were on a BICYCLE!!! I thought that device could only be used for good.
4. The thieves might rob other people in the same fashion.
5. The thieves considered threatening and robbing people to be a good thing to do.

So even though this whole incident is unfortunate, I am not at all depressed or upset about it! No tears were shed, and I whined to no one. I am in the middle of a voyage that I dreamed about my WHOLE life, and each day continues to fill me with amazing experiences of growth, knowledge, experience, and friendships. Is it inconvenient to be short of cash and behind budget? Of course! But far worse things happen to people each day in much safer places. Life goes on. Each time I get drenched in the rain, I know that the sun will shine very soon. The road ahead is glittering in my imagination... more grand vistas, more friendships and farewells to shed tears for, more tailwinds, and more cycling!

Lets go at it together!