Collision at Cajamarca

Friday, November 15, 1532.

168 Spanish conquistadors arrive in the holy city of Cajamarca at the heart of the Inca Empire in Perú after weeks of difficult marching.

They are exhausted, outnumbered and terrified – ahead of them are camped 80,000 Inca troops and the entourage of the Emperor Atahualpa Inca himself.

Yet, within just 24 hours, more than 7,000 Inca warriors lie slaughtered in the square; Atahualpa is held captive and enchained; and the victorious Europeans begin a reign of colonial terror which will sweep through the entire American continent.

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World history thus took a sharp turn when the Spaniards collided with what was perhaps the most numerous and powerful empire on the planet in the 16th century, the Incas.

The history of the Conquest of Perú is one that is wrought with tragedy, violence, deception, and espionage.

And it all began right here, in the town square of Cajamarca.

The city today is a peaceful and tranquil place, a charming red-roofed Spanish town with fine colonial architecture and an impressive cathedral. The broad valley embracing the city is a pleasant sight: cows grazing beneath broad eucalyptus groves, a giant chocolate factory, and an elaborately developed hot-springs which boasts magical healing properties.

All of these are imported and unusual sights, especially imagining the city before the arrival of the Spaniards.

I have now spent almost a week here in Cajamarca, learning about the Conquest and its modern consequences as I stroll through the shady plazas and observe indigenous Quechua speaking women quietly spinning yarns of wool as they hurry along the uncluttered streets. Little remains of the original Inca architecture, but remnants can still be seen, especially in the 'cuarto de rescate,' where Atahualpa was held captive.

In his famous ransom, Atahualpa offered to fill the room over with gold, and twice over with silver to secure his release. Pizarro and his men promised to let him go if he could provide the ransom amount, and over the next few weeks, llama trains from all over the Incan empire arrived with vast hordes of gold and silver, eventually fulfilling the ransom amount.

One can imagine Atahualpa´s shock when the Spaniards responded to his good will by strangling and burning Atahualpa, leaving his body in the square so that everyone could learn of his death.