March 16, 2009

Stage 11 - Atacama Desert and Northern Argentina

California to Patagonia: A Cycling Expedition
Stage 11 – Atacama Desert and Northern Argentina
5 January – 4 March, 2009

* Photographs from this stage of the journey can be found here.
* Route maps of the journey can be found here.

Total distance cycled: 18,204 kms
Total distance in this stage: 2,712 km
Longest distance covered in one day: 181 km (San Juan to Mendoza!)
Days on the road: 465
Days total in the Atacama and N. Argentina: 60
Maximum speed: 79 km/h (downhill out of Loja to Catamayo, Ecuador)
Maximum altitude: 6,310 mtrs (20,561 ft) - Mt. Chimborazo, Ecuador
Highest altitude cycled to date: 5,021 mtrs (Abra Huayrajasa, Peru)
Flat tires to date: 37

Total money spent in this stage: $429
Average daily expenses: $7.15 (total average for the whole trip: $11.34/day)

Nights spent...
... invited to a home – 29
... camping outdoors – 28
... in cheap hostels - 2
... firemen stations - 1

Best Day: Cycling down pleasant rural roads into Salta and a warm meeting with Pichi and his wonderful family, who immediately served up tons of mate and asados!!!
Worst Day: Hard to think of one!!!!

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Let us begin with a place. The Atacama Desert.

Imagine a hundred shades of sand. Imagine these colors as properties that exist not only within each grain, but also in terms of the relationship each grain has to the world it inhabits. Mornings paint the sand a deep, metallic blue – cold to the touch. The sun striking it at midday gives birth to a juvenile whiteness that forms a stage for hallucinatory waves of heat that move like belly-dancers across the horizon.

The same sun then breathes a fiery red to the earth as it feels its way below the waistline of the shapely horizon.

Intensity heightened.
Glowing, glowing. Burning.

A symphony of sensual contortions. And then the magic. Climax is a magic minute – never more, often less.

Then the land sinks into its bed and after cuddly sighs, stretches her body to prepare for a night of long breaths and moonlit dreams.

Until we repeat the performance again tomorrow.

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Let us add now, some characters. The dramatis personae – a voyager who has now proudly developed multiple holes in the only set of pants he owns, his faithful two wheeled companion – Bucephalus, whose diseased bottom bracket clicks metronomically when climbing hills – and a world full of kind people that aid the two in their quest.

The first task presents itself as a monster Andean pass – Paso de Sico. This is not to be underestimated. Frequent and unpredictable snow storms scour the length of these highlands, which are also known as 'the Puno.' Over 210 km of terrain over 4,000 meters. High winds, and erratic dust storms. Intense heat, and then intense cold. No villages. One mining camp and one remote border post to measure progress and refill agua. Seductive horizons that only hide more horizons behind them.

And all of it is dirt. The shade and color of this dirt doesn't matter so much anymore; rather, the shape and the form of the dirt dramatically affect important tactile sensations, such as those of the wrists, shoulders, neck, and most notoriously, the rear-end.

There are, however, gifts along the way. Perhaps these are better thought of as treasures. Like accidentally running into a pool of thermal springs at the far end of a forgotten meadow, or a starlit jam session with the ghosts of Jimi Hendrix and Bob Marley.

And the few critters that decided to keep me company at camp while it snowed outside.

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If the solitude in Paso de Sico introduced itself as part of a balancing act, then the community awaiting me on the other side in Argentina was the equalizing weight. These are the people that make such a journey worthwhile.

Like “El Pichi” and his family in Salta. Better known as Pablo, his burly physique from years of mountaineering and rugby just adds to the spunk of his big hugs and warm vibes. I was immediately shown to my room, warm showers awaiting, a yerba mate served up, and loads of delicious vinos and asados to follow. In comparison, however, these were all just condiments to the spirited conversations and stories shared during the week or so I spent recuperating. It is easy to fall love with Argentina.

Hospitality in Argentina is not an isolated experience. Just about every place I went, I was invited to meals, greeted with warm smiles and hugs, and fine vinos!

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The Deserts of Northern Argentina are a different cousin of the Atacama. Lying on the other side of the Andes, they receive more rainfall, so the scenery is dominated by brush, and pockets of spectacular red-rock canyons. At times, the riding felt a lot like being in Utah and the Desert Southwest.

The magical route through the entire length of the country is the Ruta 40. It follows the foothills of the Andes winding through deserts, lush vineyards, tranquil rural roads, and mountain passes. Thousands of miles of wonderful camping possibilities and very little traffic.

I won't go into every detail of the long stretches in the North, and hope the photographs tell their own story. In due time, the Ruta 40 delivered me into Mendoza, the lush flatlands with a perfect climate below the Andes created a space that radiated so much wonderful energy. My arrival was marked by the annual Vendimia festival -- a celebration of the late-summer harvests.

Dionysus himself must have extended a hand to me because Mendoza was filled with so much celebration, that I had the distinct feeling it wasn't just grapes that were coming to fruition. I got together with over 20 friends from more than 12 countries - locals and travelers alike, brought together by the Couchsurfing community. In an inspiration of ritual madness, the thousands of bodies in the local stadium thrived to the music of Manu Chao. As Manu grooved from song to song, the camaraderie shared with my new friends was an unforgettable experience. The following days continued with more merrymaking - asados, vinos, fiestas, and in the end, the promise of cycling into mountains once again was the only thing that made me mount my bicycle once again.

And as Manu sings, "el viento viene, el viento se va..." the wind did its best as well, to keep me in Argentina. Battling headwinds along the whole climb, a few days later, I crested the Andes again just below the majestic Cerro Aconcagua - and prepared for the next chapter in Chile.


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Acknowledgments:

- Juan Enrique: Thanks for welcoming me into Chile and for the much-needed legal stamp of entry!
- Maria Teresa, Victoria, Juan, y Liliana: My Quechua family... thanks for making me feel so much a part of the family ('Tio Japhy!') during my stay in Calama!
- David Harden: Thanks for your support, for the unique opportunity to climb Tupungato and for the wonderful moments we shared in Santiago.
- Sharkey Cornell: for your excellent company on Tupungato!
- Don Hertil: thanks for getting us across the river that was 'supposedly' uncrossable.
- Alegria and Miguel: for your cheerful company at 16,000!
- Thomas Pflug: great dinner and conversations in S. Pedro de Atacama!
- Lorenzo Parera: thanks for the crucial data on crossing Paso de Sico on bike!
- Marcelo Gonzalez: thanks for accompanying me a few kms out of town in the Atacama.
- Juan and the whole team at Mina El Laco: the water you provided, very literally, saved my life in the Atacama!
- Nahuel and Sebastian: for your indomitable spirit and for the quest you've put out for yourselves!
- Jean-Noel, Stephanie, and the whole Ayabombe family: thanks for the surprise crossing in S Antonio de los Cobres!
- Pichi, Mercedes, Vicky, and Pablito: thanks for your warm hospitality in Salta and the best welcome to Argentinian culture.
- Ramiro Ragno: for all those asaditos, vinos, and fond stories shared in Salta.
- Tom, Clemente, Josie, y Marcela: for the jam session in Cabra Corral, the spirited conversations, the asaditos, and the sangria, and so much more!!!
- Alex, Lauren, Ash and Poppy: for your amazing company in Cafayate and for being such an inspiration.
- Carlos Isas Guillou and family: for taking care of this weary traveler in Tafi del Valle.
- Dinora: for your warm smiles and your wonderful friendship!
- Silvana, Maria Eugenia, Marcos, Alvaro, Ana, y Paulina: for your enthusiasm, curiousity, and that wonderful game of ping-pong!
- Jose Agustin Iramain: for surprising me in the middle of the night and for your company in Tafi.
- Marcos Villa Kenning: for helping get Bucephalus' bottom bracket running smoothly!!!! I couldn't have done it myself.
- Debora: for your big hugs and unforgettable stories in Amaiche del Valle!
- Alfredo: for the gift of grapes – in the mid-day desert heat, this was paradise!!
- Celine and Thomas Reynaud: for the chance encounter in the middle of the desert and for making those long kilometers go by fast!
- Jules and Jess: great camp in Andolucas!
- Raul Diaz: for inviting me to the most delicious asado in Andolucas.
- El Negro: for the memorable campsite in Sanogasta.
- Rafael: thanks for driving your tractor at the right time, right place (I drafted behind his slow tractor for over 30 km to cut intense headwinds out of Chilecito).
- Stella and Joris: for helping me celebrate 17,000 km out of Villa Union!
- Rolando Coria: for taking such good care of me in Rodeo, for introducing me to Martin Fierro, and for sharing your bottomless knowledge of Argentinian folklore.
- Cristina Guerri: for your motherly love and all those unforgettable moments in San Juan.
- Ivana Coria: you and Harry are truly an inspiration for me, and I am eternally grateful for helping me feel at home in Argentina.
- Tagua, Mara, y Marita: for the jam session and buena onda in San Juan.
- Carina, German, and Ignacio: thanks for hosting me in Mendoza, and for Manu Chao, the asaditos, dance parties, ahh, the list is endless!
- Natalia Lazaro: for getting me excited about big mountains again, and for inspiring me to find my true voice: you are amazing!
- Yasmin Irani: for the pleasant encounter under a shady tree in Mendoza.
- Luis Jait: for your priceless gift... your book reminded me that the world is always more magical than it seems.
- Melisa Soles: for your love, your friendship, and your unforgettable companionship in Mendoza.
- Paula, Diego, and Lucas: for taking great care of me in Puente del Inca!
- Eric Savard: for the “terreno de ciclistas” and the dog-cemetary campsite!
- Jan Puerta: thanks for the random encounter near Los Libertadores and the excellent photographs.
- Damian Lopez: and the most important thanks to my old friend and brother of the roads – for embodying all that is BEST about Argentinian culture, for making me fall in love with Argentina, and for sharing your insatiable fire to move the world!

9 comments:

Jiling 林基玲 said...

i can feel the sun's heat, the desert's dust, bucephalus' strength, your butt's soreness
i know as you know
that roots run deep
branches stretch high
and Wind sends kisses far

thank you

Jiling 林基玲 said...

oh, and your writing style gets me smiling

thanks again :)

lovelovelove
j

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